Upgrading to the Keychron K1 V3 Mechanical Keyboard

the Keychron K1 V3 RGB

I’ve been working from home since returning from my last business trip to the USA in Feb 2020. It’s now the first week of June 2020, and I foresee continuing this WFH motion to continue for many more months. With that, I’ve decided to update my home office set up.

One of the first updates was the addition of the Samson Satellite USB microphone, which I’ve wrote a bit about here. Now, I’m updating my keyboard from an old Logitech K200, to the Keychron K1 that is pictured above. This post is typed out with the Keychron K1.

First, why the upgrade? The Logitech K200 had served me well for many years. However as I moved from Windows Vista (yup, the last PC I owned ran Windows Vista), to Mac, the keyboard didn’t really change. While I’ve figured out the few key mappings to use a Windows keyboard on Mac OS X, it has always been a bit of an annoyance. Especially when I switch from my work MacBook Pro, with a Mac Keyboard layout, to my Mac Mini with the Windows layout, it gets somewhat annoying. Hence the inner desire to change has been lingering for a while.

Looking for a keyboard nowadays is so much more than what it used to be. The last time that a keyboard caught my attention was the Microsoft Natural keyboard from 1998. There weren’t many mainstream developments that caught my attention. In recent years gaming mechanical keyboards had gain popularity and opened up a new segment. It took some research to understand what exactly are these keyboards and what makes them click (pun intended). Terms like Cherry MX came up frequently, and there are colours like red, brown, blue, yellow, etc. If you are also new to mechanical keyboards, here is what I’ve learnt.

Mechanical Keyboards

Traditional keyboards (before mechanical) are essentially membrane keyboards. If you have ever looked in one, you will see there is like a large sheet of rubber inside the keyboard and each key will press against a location that pushes the membrane in contact to a circuit board below. These keyboard typically give a dull feel to the keystroke.

Mechanical keyboards on the other hand have individual switches for each key. The membrane no longer exists. I believe the main drivers and advantage to move to such design was driven by gamers. Having individual switches allow faster keypress, touch feedback and more keys to be pressed simultaneously. Supposedly such keyboards can give gamers improved game play and hopefully an edge, especially with competitive gaming. Overall typing experience is also meant to be better, giving a good tactile feel. I do agree with this, the feel is more solid.

What’s with the Red, Brown and Blues?

If you search around, there is a very wide selection of mechanical keyboards out there. First, there are many different manufacturers, and each has several models, and typically each model will have different “colours”. Let’s touch on the colours, and their significance. The colours are referencing to the type of switch used by the keyboard. It’s an indication of the tactile feel of the switch, and not for aesthetics purpose. You can’t really see the colour unless you remove a keycap to look below. The most popular switch manufacturer is CHERRY, a German company that has been around since 1953. If you look around CHERRY’s website, you will find the characteristics of each colour, and an animation of the internal mechanisms of each switch type. Gives you an idea on how each switch differs.

Key characteristics for each colour are in the following areas:

  • Operating Force – indicates how “stiff” the feel is for each key. The higher the number the harder you have to press.
  • Pre-Travel – indicates how deep the key needs to be pressed for the keystroke to be registered. This varies, but it is typically this is around the halfway point of the Total Travel.
  • Total Travel – that’s the total distance each key can move downwards as you press. There’s always a bit more movement allowed beyond the “clicking” point.
  • Audible Click – whether that switch type generates a “click” sound as it is depressed.

There are other manufacturers for switches and from my brief look, they tend to follow the convention that CHERRY adopts, where the Red has the lightest Operating Force, with no audible click sound, and the Blue is the opposite with heavier Operating Force and has the audible click. There are several other colours, but I find that the red, brown, blue are the most common. I found the YouTube video (embedded below) by BeatTheVBush DIY to be really useful to help me decide (audio wise) which colour I’m comfortable with.

The other aspects of the keyboard

One of the top priority area to consider when picking the keyboard is the type of switch you’d like to have. The other common things to consider are:-

  • Keyboard Language – does it have layout you prefer, e.g. most common is the US101, but there are others that are geared towards different languages, like Chinese, Japanese, French, German, etc.
  • Keyboard Size – is it a full sized 104 keys with number pad, or one size down is the 87 keys, a.k.a. TKL (Ten Key Less), without the number pad, or even smaller, the 60%, that cuts out the column with home, end, pg up/down.
  • Keyboard OS – typically whether if it has the Windows or Mac layout.
  • Connectivity – is it USB wired, wireless with bluetooth or proprietary wireless. The older PS/2 and DIN connectors should be extremely rare nowadays.

Enter the Keychron K1

There are not many mechanical keyboards out there that have the Mac layout. As I was shopping on Lazada, the only one that came up was the Keychron keyboards. Doing some research, the Keychron do have some good reviews, especially for the K1. The others, K2, K4 and K6 look good as well, but they have a common complaint that they tend to be too thick. The K1 is designed to be thin, and it is indeed among the thinnest mechanical keyboards out there.

As I intend to use the keyboard with a KVM, it is essential that it must support a USB connectivity. The K1 meets this requirement as well. The added bluetooth support is nice to have. The K1 supports pairing up to 3 unique devices, they can be Mac, IOS, Windows or Android. I tested it with my iPhone 11 Pro and it worked nicely. The phone links up quickly once BT was enabled on the K1.

Price was also in the ball park I was prepared to spend. There were several other models my friends suggested, like the Ducky keyboards, but they are beyond my preferred price range.

I am also intrigued by the RGB option available with the K1. The control of the colour pattern is locally handled on the keyboard itself. There is a dedicated light key which will cycle through the patterns. Additionally, using the hotkey combo of fn+Left or fn+Right arrow keys will allow choice of colours for that chosen pattern, e.g. only red, blue, white, rainbow, etc.

The Keychron K1 looks to be really popular and as of this writing, V4 is about to be released in a few days. The one I have is the V3, ordered from Mecha.Store on Lazada.sg.

First Day Experience

Keychron K1 in the box with plastic wrappers removed

The K1 arrived a few days after the order was placed. Not bad during the COVID-19 period where there are significant logistics overheads.

The keyboard came out of the box with the Mac layout. 5 additional key caps are included to convert the keys to the Windows layout. A keycap puller is also included to aid the conversion process. USB-A to USB-C cable is also included and is reasonably thick. The included quick start guide and manual are pretty well written.

Sliding switches on the K1

The keyboard is pretty much plug and play, nothing less one would expect from a keyboard. There are two switches on the side, above the esc key to switch between Mac/iOS vs Windows/Android, and another with Cable/Off/Bluetooth settings. Functions are pretty much self explanatory.

The bluetooth labelling on 1, 2 & 3 keys

The bluetooth function is also rather simple to use. Pressing the fn+Numeric key 1, 2 or 3, will switch the connection profile to one of the 3. To pair, simply press and hold the key combo for a few seconds, and the bluetooth light will being to flash slowly, indicating it is in pairing mode. The usual motion to search and pair available devices from your Computer/mobile device applies.

I tested the bluetooth connection with my iPhone and encountered an interesting bit where shift+3 gave me a £ instead of #. I realised it’s because of the keyboard type I had set up on the iPhone to English(UK). That got resolved as I swapped the keyboard with English(SG). I’m sure English(US) would resolve that as well, but as Singapore follows the UK spelling style, the autocorrect with the US dictionary isn’t as appropriate.

One of the feature updates with the K1 V4 is that caps lock key will have an added indicator for the 87-keys model. Fret not though for the earlier models, recent firmware for the K1 allows enabling the LED on the caps lock key to operate independently from the keyboard light pattern. Meaning, instead of participating in the flashy light show with the other keys, the LED for the caps lock key will only be used to indicate whether caps lock is enable or not. This can be toggled using the hot key combo fn+caps lock+P. Holding the combo for about 6 seconds will toggle the function. You’ll know it has taken effect when all the keys flash red, neat!

Firmware Update

An occupational hazard I have is to always look at updating to the latest (and stable) firmware. That’s was what I did for the K1 as well. It is nice that Keychron provides updates, and I took advantage of it. There are update utilities available for both Windows and Mac, which is the least I would expect for a device that is designed to work across both Operating Systems.

The process worked exactly as how it was instructed on the website. With the last step to perform a factory restore of the keyboard. I was expecting the bluetooth pairing with my phone to be gone, but to my surprise, that remained. What got reset were like the setting for the independent caps lock light.

There is an important thing to watch out for, that is warned on the website, is to ensure no other keyboards are connected to the same computer performing the firmware update. I decided to be extremely careful and disconnect my Trendnet KVM from my Mac Mini, and have the keyboard wired directly. Also, I removed the Logitech Unify adapter I use with the mouse, as that same adapter can also work with Logitech Keyboards. Meanwhile, I used my old wired mouse to during the firmware update process.

What I like about the K1

I ordered the K1 with blue switches. Do note that Keychron uses the Gateron switches. I don’t have any personal experience with other switches to offer a comparison, but I’m quite pleased with these blue switches. Having typed through this blog, I’m pleased with my choice.

The low profile nature of the keyboard also fits well with my preference. I’ve been working off my MacBook Pro for several years now and this allows a comfortable switch. I would guess the other models like the K2 could be too tiring for me.

The light show on the keyboard has many patterns to choose from. Although I don’t always look at the keyboard while typing, it just adds to a cool factor. The fact that I don’t need additional software on the computer to drive the LED is a bonus.

The print screen key works for both on OS X and iOS. On the Mac Mini, pressing the key is equivalent to a cmd+shift+4.

I really like that the Keychron team is continually innovating and improving the products based on feedback. Evidently from the new firmware which look to stem from customer feedback, and also the newer varieties of the K1.

Areas I feel can be improved

So far, the keyboard itself has been great and I have zero issues with it. What I feel that can be improved are the following areas.

Product labeling: since the K1 has had a few updates, it will be useful to also label that on the keyboard. E.g. at the bottom of the keyboard there is a print that says “K1 Bluetooth Mechanical Keyboard”; if it has a “V3” some where, it would have been perfect. Although I had ordered the V3, there was no easy way for me to determine that I have indeed received the V3. I had to do some detective work to search for images to compare. And with that, I could only tell that I definitely don’t have the V1 as the light key have moved since V2.

Firmware Checking: there doesn’t seem to be a way for me to check what is the running version of the firmware on the K1. Pretty much so I can easily tell if I should take the trouble to update my unit. The FW update tool is rather basic with just a “start” button. I had to read the FW releases and compare the features with what my K1 could do. At best my unit would have version 2.72. So it was worth attempting to update to the latest 3.7.

Website: the downloaded file for 3.7 firmware, interestingly unzipped with 3.6 in the file name. Doing a checksum comparison with the zip file for 3.6, they are actually identical. I’ve submitted a ticket for this. So meanwhile, I’ve seemingly have updated my unit to 3.6.

Wrapping up…

I’m pretty much very happy with the Keychron K1 V3. The feel is great, and I just switched to finish this post on my iPad paired with the K1. It’s working flawlessly over Bluetooth, with no apparent latency. The “clickiness” of the blue switch is to my liking. So far my family doesn’t find it disturbing at all. I enjoy the feel of the keys.

If you are looking out for a low profile mechanical keyboard. I certainly do recommend the Keychron K1. It is of reasonable value, and with V4 around the corner, the improvements are nice.

My first impressions with the Samson Satellite microphone

I recently (Apr 2020) bought the Samson Satellite to record voice overs for the technology videos I’m creating for work. It was during the 2020 COVID-19 Circuit Breaker in Singapore, thankfully CityMusic online shop was still operating and they processed the online order promptly. The courier took a few days to deliver the mic, as it was expected due to overheads during the Circuit Breaker period. Product was received in good condition, thumbs up for the online shop!

Samson_SatelliteThe mic has a sturdy build. Feels solid with the all metal body, and has a good weight. The mic is not self powered, and draws power from the device it is connected with. I tested it with my iPhone 11 Pro Max, with the native Voice Recorder and Camera apps. Recording was clear and sounded excellent. The iPhone was able to use the Satellite as both for input and output. To listen, plug your headphones to the monitor jack on the Satellite.

Next, I tested on my MacBook Pro. As the included cable is USB-A to micro USB, I had to use an USB-A to USB-C convertor. Similar to the iPhone, the MacBook detected the Satellite for both input and output device, and it works just the same. Of course, being on OSX, I have the choice to pick different input and output devices. I tested the Mic recording with iMovie and Quicktime. Both worked really well. iMovie is the primary reason why I bought the Satellite. iMovie does not natively work with AirPods as an input source.

Here is a quick test recording that I did using my iPhone that’s connected to the Samson Satellite with the included microUSB to lightning cable.

I’m totally happy with the Samson Satellite, and I expect to be using it with all my recordings.

Suica for Children

If you are planning a trip to Tokyo, Japan with children, this post may be for you. Especially if you may be taking a fair bit of train, be it JR or Subway services. If you have a JR pass, then this may not be necessary during the effective period of your pass.

The Suica card is a personal stored value card that can be used for public transportation. It is used similarly to the EZlink card in Singapore, or an Opal card in Sydney. Charge the card with some value, and at each gantry point, tap as you enter, and once more to exit, the deduction will be made automatically from the balance in the card.

The Suica is something I use a lot when I travel in Japan. It allows the convenience for not needing to purchase a train ticket each ride, and also a common means for payment at vending machines, stores and restaurants. Best of all, it can also be added to my iPhone or Apple Watch. (Another post about this next time.)

Now to the topic of Suica for Children. Most child fares (all that I’ve encountered so far) are 50% the price of adults. A child fare is valid for those from 6 till 12 years old. That’s a good amount of savings, and well worth the effort to get one.

Regular Suica for grown ups can be bought at designated vending machines. For child suica however, needs to be bought from the ticket office found at most JR stations in Tokyo city. You’ll need to bring along the child’s passport. I found that the staffs at the ticket office speak sufficient English for the process to be completed easily.

There is a requirement to put ¥500 deposit for each Suica card, which is pretty standard, even with adult Suica cards too.

The child Suica will be printed with the child’s name and with an added character 小, meaning “small”. To prevent abuse of the card, each time it is used, the ticket gantry will emit a bird chirp. So any adult attempting to use a child ticket can be sieved out.

Adding value to the child Suica card is the same as for an adult, can be done at the self service ticket machines, with cash.

One advantage of a registered Suica card is that in case it gets lost, it can be replaced for a reasonable fee of ¥500. Any value that remained available at the time of replacement will be transferred to the new card.

When the child comes of age, I think on the 12th Birthday, the card can no longer be used for child fare. Another quick visit to the ticket office to do a quick “promotion” of the card to a full fare Suica. The process is free and rather quick. You may need to bring the child’s passport along as well. If you don’t do this, the card cannot be used at all. Don’t worry, the stored value is not lost, it can be used again once the card has been “promoted”.

Final note, a Suica card is good for 10 years since it’s last use, so it doesn’t expire so easily. Even if so, you can do a refund anytime for a simple ¥250 fee.

Home Automation with Digital Door Locks

For the next post to my Home Automation Series, I’ll share about what I’ve done with automating the Main and Yard doors for my apartment.

The initial requirement was simply to have a keyless way to unlock the door, and just so happen that there are further integrations possible, I took it a step further. Here are the details.

My initial use case was to be able to unlock the door without keys, but yet secure. After some research I arrived at the Samsung Digital Locks. Specifically I bought the two SHP-DP728.

This lock supports the following methods to unlock the door

  • Fingerprint
    • works fine for most grown ups, doesn’t work well with children
  • PIN
    • a rather smart implementation that it will randomly force you to key in prefix numbers first before the actual pin. This is so that there is even “oil prints” distributed around the keypad
  • Proximity Card
    • the unit came with 2 credit card size, 2 mini card size, and 2 key tags; straightforward tap and unlock
  • App via bluetooth
    • needs to register the phone first via the app, then use the app to unlock. It doesn’t go by proximity, meaning it will not unlock just because your phone is near.
    • I was told that once the Z-Wave module is installed, bluetooth does not work; however it didn’t seem so.
    • To use bluetooth function with this lock, I needed to install the sHome app on my iPhone and setup was quite straightforward. The use of the app wasn’t so good though, I’ll have another post to share more details about it.
    • The short of it is I am able to unlock the door from the app, but that’s all.
  • Automation via Z-Wave (needs add-on module, **ask for EU/I chip**)
    • connects to my Homey, and the possibility becomes unlimited
    • as Homey is primary built for EU market, the Z-Wave module needs to be of the EU band as well
    • For my installation by Hanman, I requested for the EU/I module, as I’ve been told it provide fine grain details to the lock operations, e.g. the Z-Wave trigger can be distinguished on how the lock is unlocked, with a fingerprint, card, opened from inside etc.
    • The module is installed after the lock is installed, and a firmware update was necessary for the module. Both of my modules were supposed to be updated before they brought to my place, but one didn’t work and had to be re-flashed once more on site.
  • Manual Key (override)
    • in case everything else fails, or when battery runs out, this is the override to unlock the door

Another important aspect for me with this lock is the way you would open the door. The lock need to push/pull according to the same direction the door opens and closes. Hanman site describes this really well, here. Bottom line is, you’ll want a natural feel to the direction of opening the door.

Installation by Hanman was professional and nicely done, the installer came with the right tools to  accurately drill the necessary holes in the door and door frame to fit the unit. He then showed me how to do the necessary setup, and that’s about it. The rest was for me to figure out.

I’m generally quite pleased with this lock and would recommended it. I do want to remind you to check out that it is a unit that is compatible with your door, in terms of fitting, as well as the direction of opening.

Taking it further – Here comes the real automation bit

The automation I’ve done is basically two main use case
A. When a door is unlocked, Homey will announce it. This is particularly useful when we are not constantly watching the door.
B. When me or my wife gets home, the door will unlock automatically. This is rather complex to setup, and I’ll need another blog post for that. It incorporates a motion sensor, Google Wifi, IFTTT and of course, Homey.

After the digital lock is installed with the Z-Wave module, the next thing to do is to install the Samsung Z-wave Locks plugin for Homey. The plugin is written by the good guys at Automate Asia, where I bought my Home Automation Solution from.

Pairing of the Digital lock with Homey was straightforward, just like pairing any other Z-Wave devices. Bring the Homey near the lock and start pairing. To know if it’s successful, and if the module in the lock is truly EU/I, there’s a bit to do.

Basically, the acid test to determine if the chip is EU/I, is that if you set a flow as below
When… “Unlocked from back”
Then… “Speech > Say Hello

The key part is “Unlocked from back” as a non EU/I chip will not be able to distinguish that action. So, a successful test is when you open the door from the inside, Homey will say “Hello”

That’s it for the first use case, you are free to create more flows to have Homey say different things based on how the door was unlocked. 🙂

Do you have other ideas? Do share! Have Fun!

2019 Home Automation with Homey & Google Home

I recently move into a new apartment, and I took the opportunity to dive into some Home Automation. This post shares some of the things I’ve done, and will write more around the details.

The overall solution, I adopted the approach my friend, Vicardo, shared with me, that devices can be controlled by Voice, Smartphone App, and Manual. Voice and app will be the primary methods, and as a fallback, there must be a way to manually trigger the action, e.g. switch off the lights, roll up the blinds.

(Full post on my complete bill of materials to come soon…)

Overview of my Home Automation Set Up

Let’s start with some of the uses cases I have, and then I’ll mention the components involved in each use case. It’s important to note that the core controller I’ve chosen is the Homey.

  • Lights Automation
    • I have all my living room, dining room and master bedroom lights automated. This allows me to control the lights as groups, e.g. when leaving the apartment, I can power off the lights with a single control. Or I can define a scene for movie time and it will power off all lights except and keep a selected few on.
    • Device – MCO Home touch panel switches
    • Connectivity – Z-Wave
    • Controller – Homey
    • (more details coming…)
  • Balcony Zip Blinds Automation
    • I have my entire balcony installed with ZipBlinds. I use the blinds to block out rain, or when fully lowered, I can let the living room aircon run and cool down a bigger area.
    • Device – MC2 Altex SecureZip (with Somfy motors)
    • Connectivity – RTS
    • Controller – Homey (Connexoon is optional; which I’m not using)
    • (more details coming…)
  • Apartment Front and Yard Doors Automation
    • I have installed electronic locks by Samsung. It has an added z-wave module which allows integration with Homey for some controls.
      • When door opens – Homey announces the door is unlocked
      • When door closes – Homey announces the door is locked
      • When I get home – the door is unlocked
    • Device – (Lock) Samsung SHP-DP728 with Z-Wave (EU/I) addon module
    • Device – (Motion Sensor) Aeotec MultiSensor 6
    • Device – (Wifi) Google Wifi
    • Advanced Integration – IFTTT
    • Connectivity
      • Lock to Homey > Z-Wave
      • Motion Sensor to Homey > Z-Wave
    • Controller – Homey
    • more on the basic setup of this lock
  • Aircon automated control
    • I discovered the Ambi Climate in late 2018, and found it to be really effective to nicely control the room temperature. The most important part for me is that I no longer wake up in the morning to an overly cold room which I dread to crawl out from under the blanket. Now I always wake up to a nice comfortable temperature.
    • Device – Ambi Climate
    • Connectivity – Wifi
    • Controller – not required, but integrated with Google Home for voice commands
    • (more details coming…)

There’s much more to share, watch out for more posts on the Home Automation topic.

Further topics to read on

Solution – iPhone Apps are not syncing with iTunes after a restore

So you have got a new iPhone; you did a backup of your old iPhone and restored it to the new device. Everything seems to be working except that Apps are not installing. You try to re-sync with iTunes but nothing changes.

Looking at the Apps tab in iTunes shows that the Apps will be installed. So the question is when? Seems never right?

Well, it happened to me recently when I was doing just the same thing for an iPhone I was migrating. I even tried to restore a second time, but it didn’t matter.

I then stumbled upon the “Restrictions” settings, funny enough it was disabled. The original phone had restrictions turned on and Apps installation disabled. Just in the off chance of a bug here, I enabled restrictions, just to make sure all options are set to enabled, and turned off restrictions again.

Right after, I did another sync with iTunes, and all the Apps started to install.

There you have it, there’s a bug in the process. Maybe it was specific to my situation, where the source was an iPhone 4 with iOS6 and the target was an iPhone 4S with iOS7.

Nevertheless, here’s an experience I’ll share, in case if you encounter a similar issue.

My first Quadcopter

RC Toys has come a long way since I started in 1988. I’ve always wanted a flying RC toy. Didn’t have much success with my old plane “Challenger” which had less than 10 flights, out of which only 2 were successful. Then a couple of years back, I tried a simple RC helicopter which also didn’t do well.


Now, I’ve discovered the rather “crash proof” Skywalker by BT Toys. I first came across it outside of Sim Lim Square. There’s an RC shop which is just between SLS and Burlington Square. Someone was flying it to promote the toy. That shop is known for exorbitant pricing! So I started searching around.

I came across Toys RC on facebook, and promoting the Skywalker for S$69.95. I contacted them and had good response and once the stock was in, I was notified for a very quick and seamless pick up. The seller is nice and he actually carries lots of other RC products. Here’s one of his websites. You and also purchase additional batteries and charger from him at a reasonable price.

The Skywalker is literally a quadcopter in a cage. Due to this unique design, there’s a few ways to play with it. This Youtube video shows it all.

I give this a 2 thumbs up!

  • The cage gives me a bit more confident in flying as I don’t have to worry about crashing
  • The running mode lets my son get the hang of the 3 modes control
  • The 2.4GHz controller is fantastic as it allows multiple skywalkers to be flown together
  • The USB charger is so convenient to use

With more practice, I can start to fly the more grown up copters 🙂

Goodbye Logmein Free? Or Not?

Today I received an email from Logmein, stating that for Ignition users, we can still continue to use the App to remotely access our computers, even after the 6 months free trial of Pro. Interestingly I do not find the same information at their website. I do however, find their community forum where thousands of users have expressed their respond to the demise of Logmein Free.


I’ll probably just hang around and see what happens in 6 months. I’ve already got a few other alternatives to use, such as Splashtop, Teamviewer & VNC. And while going through the forums, I discovered Google’s Chrome Remote Desktop, which I’ll find time to try out.

Logmein Free no longer available


I’ve been a user of Logmein Free for many years now. At the peak of my usage, I even bought the App on the iPad. It’s still the most expensive I’ve ever bought from the Apple App Store. As I logged in today, I received a notification that Logmein Free is no longer available. Due to my loyalty, I have been granted 6months free subscription to the paid Logmein Pro.

This is quite sad as I like their service, and it has been a reliable method for me to access my home PCs remotely. Some months back a limit was imposed on the number of PCs I can access remotely for free. Looks like that is not enough, and Logmein has completely done away with the free service.

Free is always appreciated. However this is for personal use and I don’t need any of the pro features (although they are great in a real support environment). At this rate, I will probably have to say goodbye to the service by the end of the 6 months.

20140203: There’s an update to this right here

Review : Jabra Revo Wireless

I recently invested in my first pair of over-the-ear headphones, after much research and testing, I decided on the Jabra Revo Wireless.

I had very specific requirements which helped to narrow down my choices, and the Jabra Revo Wireless succeeded on.

  • Bluetooth capable, and must support multipoint connectivity (simultaneous connection to 2 devices at the same time over bluetooth)
  • Must have a decent voice call quality, especially for the mic. Really hate to constantly repeat myself because of poor noise isolation.
  • Comfortable over the ears cups
  • Good music quality
  • Leverages the IOS headset battery meter; so I can see how much power is left in the headset
  • Integrates well with IOS and Android

Some nice to have features, which I really like, and the Jabra Revo Wireless supports very well

  • backup wired connection via 3.5mm – this allows me to keep using the headphones even after the battery has gone completely flat; and also enables me to use the headphone with inflight entertainment systems
  • charge via USB – this is particularly important especially for travellers; the icing on the cake here is that the Jabra Revo Wireless will act as an USB audio device. Works on both Mac and Windows; the Jabra Revo Wireless will show up in the Audio device list for both input and output!! How cools is that!?!

Call performance is very good, among the best of bluetooth devices I have used.

Multipoint works very well, though I must add that when there are 2 devices connected, there will be some lag in the audio. So, if you are watching a video, or playing a game, the sound will be about half a second late. I’ve validated that this only occurs when multipoint is in action.

Overall, this is a great headset and I am very pleased of my investment.